Italian Adventure Part 3 – The Amalfi Coast Road


It blew a hooley last night and the industrial structure that is our hotel, has a number of features which shrieked and howled. Strangely, Gerry missed all of that but was awake for a full-blown thunderstorm, forked lightning, the works. Somehow I managed to sleep through the thunderstorm, even though I was awake every 90 minutes or so during the night.

All of the overnight weather had set us up for a fairly dull day, although it was probably for the best. Who wants to sit in a car being baked by bright  sunshine.

So, sat nav, camera, and water suitably prepared, we set out for Amalfi. Our route initially takes us towards Sorrento. Just brushing the outskirts but giving us some superb views…….

Lido Marinella - Meta
Lido Marinella – Meta
Coastal View Near Meta
Coastal View Near Meta

 

Then onto the Amalfi Coast Road proper. Everything you read about driving this route warns you about the narrowness of the roads and the tightness of the bends. Oh and lets not forget the huge vertical drops to the sea.

I’m not going to say that all those writings are wrong. They are not. What I will say is that you have to drive with due care and patience. The roads are tight but certainly wide enough for two vehicles. After all, even the coaches have to pass each other. Where it gets interesting is when you encounter a coach on one of the many hairpin bends. They usually sound their horns to let you know they are coming. The general etiquette is that you give way to them. Back up if necessary. Many of the bends also have mirrors set so you can see if anything is coming around those blind bends.

Remember, these guys are professional. They drive this route many times during the year and some, multiple times a day.

Back to our journey, we were soon approaching Positano ….

Positano
Positano – Amalfi Coast
Positano
Positano – Amalfi Coast

As we started our descent into Positano we came to a halt and didn’t move for around 15 minutes. Quite a few passengers bailed out of their cars and coaches and walked down. We saw some re-board their coaches later on. I’m just glad it wasn’t a clear blue sky, sunny day.

Queuing Outside Positano
Just one of the inevitable queues on the road leading down into Positano
Coastal Road - Near Positano
You can just see part of the Coastal Road above the archway- Near Positano

We didn’t stop in Positano although it looked a great place to explore. Although this isn’t peak season there were people everywhere. The big issue with the coastal towns in this region is that they are the victims of their popularity. Hence the nose to tail traffic and a distinct lack of parking spaces. What it would be like in July and August I can only imagine.

So, onwards and upwards out of Positano, and back onto the coastal road. We were soon approaching Amalfi. The descent into Amalfi was, as expected, a bit of a stop, go experience although quicker than Positano.

There is some parking down near the harbour but, as expected, by the time we arrived all spaces had been taken.

Harbour - Amalfi
Harbour and Coach Park – Amalfi

In the above photo yo can see the coastal road leaving Amalfi. Just round the corner, out of sight, is an amazing underground car park on multi levels. The park has been hewn out of the rock. One oddity is the fact that they do not allow passengers to enter the park, only the driver. The good news is that there is a tunnel from the car park down to the Amalfi town centre which avoids the road route. And there are very good toilettes as part of the complex.

Moles - Amalfi
Moles, Harbour Walls – Amalfi

The end of the far harbour wall was absolutely swarming with members of the selfie brigade, selfie sticks to the fore.

Marina - Amalfi
Marina – Amalfi
Beach - Amalfi
Beach – Amalfi

Walking down from the car park, we decided to stop for a spot of lunch before exploring Amalfi. Pretty much the first eatery we came upon was the Gran Caffe Tea Rooms. We both had salads washed down with a couple of bottles of Astro Azzurro. We might be suffering withdrawal symptoms when we get home.

Gran Caffe Tea Room - Amalfi
Gran Caffe Tea Room – Amalfi

Energy levels suitably replenished we set out to walk the town. Like any seaside town there are many souvenir shops selling lots of typical mediterranean ceramics, a huge variety of fancy bottles containing limoncello and bags adorned with the Amalfi name.

Amalfi
Square – Amalfi

Also around every corner there are lemons for sale. The locally grown lemons are huge and are just begging to be paired up  with equally huge gin and tonics.

Coastal Residence - Amalfi
Coastal Residence – Amalfi

While Gerry was browsing the tourist shops I opted for a trip to the end of the harbour wall….

View From End Of Harbour Wall - Amalfi
View From End Of Harbour Wall – Amalfi
Amalfi - Viewed From Harbour Wall
Amalfi – Viewed From Harbour Wall
Duomo di Amalfi
Duomo di Amalfi – Saint Andrew’s Cathedral

 

Amalfi
Amalfi Showing The Coast Road to Atrani
Hotel - Amalfi
Convento Di’Amalfi Grand Hotel – Amalfi
Beach - Amalfi
Beach – Amalfi
Overlooking Cliffs - Amalfi
Overlooking Cliffs – Amalfi
I Want The Yellow Villa - Amalfi
I Want The Yellow Villa – Amalfi
Boat - Amalfi
Boat – Amalfi

Amalfi is a maze of narrow streets hiding restaurants, pizzeria, fish and chip shops as well as the usual tourist tat…..

Amalfi Mural
The Protontino Wine Cellar

Gerry had a look at really nice leather handbag. The seller tried to tell us that the 180 euros he wanted was equivalent to 70 pounds. Not the actual 158 pounds that it truly converts to.

We are not as green as we are cabbage looking.

Amalfi Narrows
Amalfi Narrows

The streets get narrower and narrower as you head to the back of the town.

Narrow Steps - Amalfi
Narrow Steps – Amalfi

The Duomo di Amalfi is very  popular, not least because of the many steps on which one can rest up from all the touring.

Duomo di Amalfi
Duomo di Amalfi

After touring Amalfi it was time to head back to the hotel before darkness descended. Google maps decided, since I hadn’t programmed any of the Amalfi coastal towns as vias, that our route would take us up over the mountains via Ravello. This route is almost as entertaining as the Amalfi Coast Road, perhaps more so, as the clouds moved in and we were driving up the mountain, in torrential rain, along narrow roads with innumerable hairpin bends. At times we were driving in fog like conditions but after nearly an hour we descended to the coast again and were soon back at the hotel.

Unfortunately no photos. When there was a view it was lashing down with rain.

I would recommend anyone to try the Amalfi Coast Road. Just be patient and be prepared for a little tension especially when you see how close the coaches are to each other. Just don’t expect it to be like in the movies, cruising along in an open topped sports car, wind in your hair and open roads with no traffic. Not in these modern times.

It is still an enjoyable journey, we had a super day.

 

 

Italian Adventure Part 2 – Sick Day


Day 2 turned out to be not such an adventure after all. Unfortunately the cold has made for a fairly down beat second day. Call it man-flu, whatever you like, it has just left me feeling grotty.

We decided it was probably not a good idea to take on the Italian roads, when I wasn’t firing on all cylinders, and opted to spend the day at the hotel, by the pool. Temperatures were up around 25 degC, even though it was cloudy for most of the day. We lay by the pool but didn’t actually get in the water. I did test the water but it was pretty cold. There were only two folks brave enough to get right in and they didn’t stay long.

To mitigate the disappointment, we again had lunch with a couple of beers at Bar Acquarello. Planning to eat in the evening, we avoided the cheeseburgers which were very good but very filling.

The evening meal was really very good. Gerry had Breaded Scallops on a Rice Timbale (black rice moulded into drum shape)  to start, while I had a “Caprese” salad (mozzarella and tomatoes with basil in olive oil). Gerrys main was Sea Bass with potatoes and garlicky courgette slices. There was also some Provolone in there too but not sure if it was added to the fish or the potatoes. My main was lamb with sweet potato, cherry tomato and what looked like a black tortilla chip. My lamb was simply superb, very tender and tasty. Gerrys bass was lovely. Unfortunately, I had to finish hers as there was simply too much. All washed down with a couple of bottles of Nastro Azzurro, beer by Peroni.

We would have had a bottle of wine but thought it unwise as we intend to attempt the Amalfi coast road in the morning. I will definitely need my wits about me for that.

So that’s it for today. Not much of an adventure but enjoyable nonetheless.

 

Italian Adventure Part 1 – Home to the Hotel


Not much sleep Monday night. Tried to get some shuteye but failed and eventually, 02:00 Tuesday morning, it was time to load the car and head off to the airport. The journey was uneventful apart from the small issue of the entry to the M23 from the M25 being closed.

Seems every time I go to the airport, these days, some part of the roads system is totally closed. Be it the A3, North or South bound, doesn’t seem to matter. Or the M25, so many opportunities to cause chaos. Anyhow, we managed to navigate around the road closure and were soon at the airport. At 04:00, it was a tad cool, actually just 3 degC and as usual there is a guy wandering around in shorts and t-shirt. I guess he was an optimist.

Our next hurdle was check-in / baggage drop-off. Having nailed the online check-in Easyjet are now trialling passenger self-service baggage drop-off terminals. Basically they have done away with a friendly person and replaced them with a computerised set of scales.

This was a painful, financially, experience. It turns out that our holiday deal, via Secret Escapes, only included 15kg of hold luggage. I missed that little nugget in the Secret Escapes paperwork. I already knew we were one or two kilos over our allowance after doing due diligence and checking Easyjets allowances on-line. 23kg it says.  We had 24kg. Our new friendly (sic) computerised scales cheerfully informed us that we were 9kg over our limit and that we would need to pay a charge of £10 / kg. 90  jaw dropping quid. “Is that the total for the return journey ?” I enquired of a real human. “No, just the one way” she replied. She was a bit more helpful and suggested that once we were in Italy we go on-line and amend our booking, pay for extra baggage or another hold bag. That way we would pay a significantly lower fee.

Suitably chastened, educated, and therefore wiser, we coughed up and proceeded through security to go and find a cup of tea while we awaited our departure gates announcement. When said gate was announced we made our way to the waiting area. There we discovered that we had to take a bus ride to the plane. I haven’t had to do that since the seventies. The ride took so long we are pretty sure that, although we were booked into the Gatwick North Terminal, we actually departed from the South. Either that or, as one wag quipped, we had travelled half way to Naples by road.

Another niggle with the boarding process was that we had paid for extra leg room and priority boarding and should have boarded first. Instead it was more like the January sales. Two coach loads of passengers arriving at the plane together and boarding from both ends at the same time. It was never going to end well. I know, we all have allocated seats but it is the principle and of course, the money.

The  plane took off pretty much on time, we had a smooth flight and arrived at Naples airport around 09:40. Even at that time of the morning Naples was significantly warmer than the UK.

Our next challenge was to find the car rental office. There is a courtesy shuttle bus, apparently driven by the grumpiest, near mute, guy imaginable. He efficiently navigated the 5 minute drive to the rental offfice. Still no happier, he started to unload the luggage, then just wandered off leaving the rest for his clients to sort out for themselves.

The car rental experience was much more pleasant. An upgrade from a Renault Twingo, to a Citroen C3 with more luggage space and most importantly, for me, more head room. Also, surprisingly, we only had to pay around 20% of the deposit we had been told was due. i.e. 300 euros as opposed to 1500 euros. The lady at the rental desk was very helpful, providing us with clear directions to escape the chaos around the airport, and get us on our way to the hotel.

The journey to the hotel was not as slick as it should have been. It started well, using my phone as the satnav. However we entered a tunnel, after about 15 minutes driving, and the GPS lost it’s bearings and couldn’t  reconnect. It took us a while to find a safe place to pull over and restart the navigation exercise. We were then taken round in a huge circle. Having been through each of two tunnels twice in each direction, we weren’t sure the app and GPS actually knew where we were. So, another stop and restart seemed to sort things out and we eventually arrived at the hotel.

The Towers hotel is in a superb location and we are really pleased with the room, which has fab views, across the Bay of Naples. Mount Vesuvius is visible directly through our window. We both enjoyed lunch sitting on the terrace with Vesuvius as a back drop …..

….. and after a brief walk along the shore line we returned to our room and crashed.

But not before I had taken a few snaps of the surrounding area …….

 

 

Annoyingly, the cold that I had just over a week ago, has decided to put in an encore appearance. So due to that, and the rather large cheeseburger and fries for lunch, we decided to bypass dinner and headed for beddy-byes.