Italian Adventure Part 3 – The Amalfi Coast Road


It blew a hooley last night and the industrial structure that is our hotel, has a number of features which shrieked and howled. Strangely, Gerry missed all of that but was awake for a full-blown thunderstorm, forked lightning, the works. Somehow I managed to sleep through the thunderstorm, even though I was awake every 90 minutes or so during the night.

All of the overnight weather had set us up for a fairly dull day, although it was probably for the best. Who wants to sit in a car being baked by bright  sunshine.

So, sat nav, camera, and water suitably prepared, we set out for Amalfi. Our route initially takes us towards Sorrento. Just brushing the outskirts but giving us some superb views…….

Lido Marinella - Meta

Lido Marinella – Meta

Coastal View Near Meta

Coastal View Near Meta

 

Then onto the Amalfi Coast Road proper. Everything you read about driving this route warns you about the narrowness of the roads and the tightness of the bends. Oh and lets not forget the huge vertical drops to the sea.

I’m not going to say that all those writings are wrong. They are not. What I will say is that you have to drive with due care and patience. The roads are tight but certainly wide enough for two vehicles. After all, even the coaches have to pass each other. Where it gets interesting is when you encounter a coach on one of the many hairpin bends. They usually sound their horns to let you know they are coming. The general etiquette is that you give way to them. Back up if necessary. Many of the bends also have mirrors set so you can see if anything is coming around those blind bends.

Remember, these guys are professional. They drive this route many times during the year and some, multiple times a day.

Back to our journey, we were soon approaching Positano ….

Positano

Positano – Amalfi Coast

Positano

Positano – Amalfi Coast

As we started our descent into Positano we came to a halt and didn’t move for around 15 minutes. Quite a few passengers bailed out of their cars and coaches and walked down. We saw some re-board their coaches later on. I’m just glad it wasn’t a clear blue sky, sunny day.

Queuing Outside Positano

Just one of the inevitable queues on the road leading down into Positano

Coastal Road - Near Positano

You can just see part of the Coastal Road above the archway- Near Positano

We didn’t stop in Positano although it looked a great place to explore. Although this isn’t peak season there were people everywhere. The big issue with the coastal towns in this region is that they are the victims of their popularity. Hence the nose to tail traffic and a distinct lack of parking spaces. What it would be like in July and August I can only imagine.

So, onwards and upwards out of Positano, and back onto the coastal road. We were soon approaching Amalfi. The descent into Amalfi was, as expected, a bit of a stop, go experience although quicker than Positano.

There is some parking down near the harbour but, as expected, by the time we arrived all spaces had been taken.

Harbour - Amalfi

Harbour and Coach Park – Amalfi

In the above photo yo can see the coastal road leaving Amalfi. Just round the corner, out of sight, is an amazing underground car park on multi levels. The park has been hewn out of the rock. One oddity is the fact that they do not allow passengers to enter the park, only the driver. The good news is that there is a tunnel from the car park down to the Amalfi town centre which avoids the road route. And there are very good toilettes as part of the complex.

Moles - Amalfi

Moles, Harbour Walls – Amalfi

The end of the far harbour wall was absolutely swarming with members of the selfie brigade, selfie sticks to the fore.

Marina - Amalfi

Marina – Amalfi

Beach - Amalfi

Beach – Amalfi

Walking down from the car park, we decided to stop for a spot of lunch before exploring Amalfi. Pretty much the first eatery we came upon was the Gran Caffe Tea Rooms. We both had salads washed down with a couple of bottles of Astro Azzurro. We might be suffering withdrawal symptoms when we get home.

Gran Caffe Tea Room - Amalfi

Gran Caffe Tea Room – Amalfi

Energy levels suitably replenished we set out to walk the town. Like any seaside town there are many souvenir shops selling lots of typical mediterranean ceramics, a huge variety of fancy bottles containing limoncello and bags adorned with the Amalfi name.

Amalfi

Square – Amalfi

Also around every corner there are lemons for sale. The locally grown lemons are huge and are just begging to be paired up  with equally huge gin and tonics.

Coastal Residence - Amalfi

Coastal Residence – Amalfi

While Gerry was browsing the tourist shops I opted for a trip to the end of the harbour wall….

View From End Of Harbour Wall - Amalfi

View From End Of Harbour Wall – Amalfi

Amalfi - Viewed From Harbour Wall

Amalfi – Viewed From Harbour Wall

Duomo di Amalfi

Duomo di Amalfi – Saint Andrew’s Cathedral

 

Amalfi

Amalfi Showing The Coast Road to Atrani

Hotel - Amalfi

Convento Di’Amalfi Grand Hotel – Amalfi

Beach - Amalfi

Beach – Amalfi

Overlooking Cliffs - Amalfi

Overlooking Cliffs – Amalfi

I Want The Yellow Villa - Amalfi

I Want The Yellow Villa – Amalfi

Boat - Amalfi

Boat – Amalfi

Amalfi is a maze of narrow streets hiding restaurants, pizzeria, fish and chip shops as well as the usual tourist tat…..

Amalfi Mural

The Protontino Wine Cellar

Gerry had a look at really nice leather handbag. The seller tried to tell us that the 180 euros he wanted was equivalent to 70 pounds. Not the actual 158 pounds that it truly converts to.

We are not as green as we are cabbage looking.

Amalfi Narrows

Amalfi Narrows

The streets get narrower and narrower as you head to the back of the town.

Narrow Steps - Amalfi

Narrow Steps – Amalfi

The Duomo di Amalfi is very  popular, not least because of the many steps on which one can rest up from all the touring.

Duomo di Amalfi

Duomo di Amalfi

After touring Amalfi it was time to head back to the hotel before darkness descended. Google maps decided, since I hadn’t programmed any of the Amalfi coastal towns as vias, that our route would take us up over the mountains via Ravello. This route is almost as entertaining as the Amalfi Coast Road, perhaps more so, as the clouds moved in and we were driving up the mountain, in torrential rain, along narrow roads with innumerable hairpin bends. At times we were driving in fog like conditions but after nearly an hour we descended to the coast again and were soon back at the hotel.

Unfortunately no photos. When there was a view it was lashing down with rain.

I would recommend anyone to try the Amalfi Coast Road. Just be patient and be prepared for a little tension especially when you see how close the coaches are to each other. Just don’t expect it to be like in the movies, cruising along in an open topped sports car, wind in your hair and open roads with no traffic. Not in these modern times.

It is still an enjoyable journey, we had a super day.

 

 

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