So, having spent a brief week travelling South, from Perth to Albany, we turned our sights North. Our aim was to visit Exmouth, but to break the journey into manageable chunks.
The morning of Wednesday, 20th January, found us driving to Geraldton. The port of Geraldton is just over 400 kilometers North of Perth.
View from Brand Highway – Beermullah, WAView from Brand Highway – Mimegarra, WALeaning Tree – Greenough, WA
The Leaning Trees of Greenough are a species of Eucalyptus, the River Gum. This leaning behaviour, a natural phenomenon, is caused by the airborne salt content of the strong winds that blow in off the Indian Ocean.
After relaxing on the balcony with a cold beer we took a walk around the area and met some of the local residents ….
A Local Geraldton Resident – Possibly feral harbour cat
….. got an art infusion ….
Local Art – Geraldton, WA
…… and watched the lifeblood of Geraldton flowing out …..
Guo Yuan 32 Leaving Geraldton – Bulk Carrier sailing under the Chinese Flag
…. and in …..
Santa Rosalia – Bulk Carrier entering Geraldton
We had a very pleasant meal at Topo’s On The Terrace, a short walk away from the hotel. Then retired to recharge the batteries for the next step of our northerly journey, on to Carnarvon.
Travelling south from Kalbarri, heading to Perth, we had been following a storm cell for some time. Eventually it allowed us to catch up and experience the strong winds and rain. The temperatures plummeted from the low to mid 30’s we had been experiencing, dropping down to the low 20’s as we entered Leeman.
Storm Clouds
Between Leeman and Jurien Bay we discovered that Indian Ocean Drive was closed up ahead and we were diverted onto the Brand Highway. We had been watching a smoke stack in the distance and as we travelled onwards it grew in magnitude.
Bushfire Smokestack – viewed from Emu Downs Wind Farm WA
The smokestack seemed to interact with the existing cloud formations and dominated the skyline even as we traveled on southwards.
Bushfire Smokestack -viewed from Brand Highway
Apparently the fire was started by a lightning strike and at the time of writing was burning out of control. The DFES issued a Bushfire Emergency Warning
I guess when you choose to live in this kind of environment you accept that there are risks. You also accept that others may have to put themselves at risk on your behalf when the worst happens.
One can only hope that, on this occasion, nobody is injured or loses their life.
Our second day of travelling, south of Perth, found us bidding farewell to Margaret River and aiming for Pemberton. Travelling along Warner Glenn Road we crossed the Blackwood River where we stopped so that I could take a couple of photos. By coincidence a couple of kayakers were passing through…..
Kayaks – Blackwood River, WA
The figure in the bow of the yellow kayak is that of a dog, proudly acting as lookout. As I walked up the slope from the bridge, back to the car, I noticed a small yellow sign…… lower left corner of the photo below.
Bridge – Blackwood River, WA. Little yellow sign in bottom left corner indicates flood water levels.
The sign has a line, indicating the flood levels in January 1982. Which means that the bridge would have been totally submerged. Given the height of the bridge, over the current water level, that’s a significant amount of water.
Back on the move again we continued towards Pemberton. The “satnag” had routed us through quite a remote region and once again, well for Gerry and I, we found ourselves watching the fuel gauge. However, it wasn’t really an issue and we were soon in the centre of Pemberton.
Pemberton is a small town named after original settler Pemberton Walcott. The main industry of the town was timber and there were a number of sawmills processing timber to supply half a million railway sleepers for the Trans-Australian Railway. There are a number of associated artifacts dotted around the town.
Before touring the town we hunted down a cafe where we could have a bite to eat. There are a number of cafe’s and we soon settled ourselves on the veranda at the Crossings Bakery. This establishment self promotes themselves as the “Home Of The Great Aussie Pie” and advertises “Home Made Chunky Meat Pies” “All $5.00”.
Well I don’t know if they are “great” or if this the home of the pies but they hit the spot and when washed down by coffee’s and iced teas our little group were fighting fit to go and hit Pemberton’s tourist hotspots.
Suitably Refreshed – The Crossings Bakery, Pemberton, WA
As per usual we headed for the visitor centre where we fought off the urge to purchase copious amounts of Koala Fart, but discovered that we had about ten minutes to get aboard the Pemberton Tramway which was about to set off on its last trip of the day. This journey is well worth the time spent and, if nothing else, means you get a cooling breeze as you trundle through the forests. In their own words ….
This unforgettable 1¾ hour service shuffles out of Pemberton, past the Saw Mill and descends deep into the Karri forest. The tram meanders through the forest, crossing six bridges, stopping at the Cascades and ending at the Warren River Bridge where the Lefroy Brook Joins the Warren River. Your tram then returns to Pemberton.
This is not the most comfortable ride you will ever take but it is fun and informative, the drivers dialogue will have you laughing, well smiling perhaps. We were lucky enough to see a Kookaburra take off from a tree branch and keep pace with the tram for quite some distance before zooming off into the trees.
I See No Ships – Waiting For The Off – Pemberton Tramway, Pemberton, WA
The tram ride takes you from one side of Pemberton, across the main road, past the remaining sawmill before plunging into the forest. The following photo’s were all taken from the tram.
The tram ride paused at the Cascades where we were invited to disembark and explore the river below.
Tram – Cascades, Pemberton, WA
Apparently, at the Cascades, the Lefroy Brook transforms from a gentle flow in mid summer to a raging torrent in winter. I guess being December it was summer time and the flow was decidedly tranquil. Definitely a pretty spot, only spoilt by the hoards of tourists just dumped from their tram ride.
Hordes at the Cascades, Pemberton – Pemberton, WA
Oh yeah, I was one of those bloody tourists too.
I held back to take some shots when the tram horn blew, calling all the passengers back.
Cascades – Pemberton, WACascades – Pemberton, WACascades – Pemberton, WA
After a twenty-minute interlude at the Cascades the tram carried us further to Warren Bridge, the end of our outward journey. After a few minutes admiring the view …..
View From Warren Bridge – Pemberton Tramway, Pemberton, WA
….. the tram headed back to Pemberton. The return journey was a lot faster, and with little or no commentary.
Once back at the Pemberton station I thought this grand only veteran railway engine was deserving of a mention.
W.A.G.R “V1213” – “V” Class
This engine was built in England at Robert Stephenson & Hawthorn’s Darlington works at a cost of some £55,019 . It was in service from 20th December, 1955 through to its retirement on 17th June, 1971.
This class of engine was designed to haul coal from the Collie mines to Perth and Fremantle and were also used for heavy freight on the Perth – Bunbury and York – Albany lines.
From the station we headed back into town to search out the hotel. All of us were feeling the need to freshen up. Our hotel was very easy to find, situated as it is, right on the main road as you drive into Pemberton.
First let me say that the photos on the Best Western Pemberton Hotel website bear little similarity with our rooms. Dull, tired, dated, these are all descriptors that I would use for our accommodation. Certainly not bright and airy as the photos seem to imply. At least the room was clean.
Having freshened up we headed out to take a look at the Gloucester Tree. None of us had any plans to climb the tree which, at 58m, is way out of our league.
Gloucester Tree – Pemberton, WA
We stood and watched a number of people set off up the tree. Quite a few made it fairly quickly. A couple stopped part way and returned to the ground after only 10m or so. What really had us bemused were the number of apparently sane adults who were allowing their 8-10 year old children to climb, when they could barely span the step between the pegs. And, I know this is Australia, but climbing in thongs (English “flip-flops”). Come on folks.
After the Gloucester Tree we went exploring and came across Big Brook Dam. This is a man-made lake, built in 1986, to provide water for the Pemberton region.
Big Brook Dam – Pemberton, WA
This late in the evening the area was very quiet but looked to be a great place for walking and picnics.
As time was moving on we thought we would find somewhere to eat and returned to Pemberton centre. Much to our dismay we found that all of the earlier eateries were now closed. The only choices seemed to be our hotel, a fish and chip bar, and a curry house. It seems that Pemberton goes to sleep between 16:30 and 18:00.
Second Best Western Pemberton Hotel
So, it seemed to us that the Pemberton Hotel is the “only show in town”, unless you want a curry or a fish supper carry out. Because of this the restaurant / bar was very busy and the food service was poor. There were four in our party and two of our starters didn’t turn up. Oddly it was the first two dishes we ordered. I had to go and enquire, seems they had lost / forgotten part of our order. Then we had to wait for nearly an hour before the mains were delivered. It felt like we were being punished for having the temerity to ask where our food was.
To be quite honest, the quality of the food left a lot to be desired and wasn’t worth the wait. It was very poor, probably the worst we have had in WA. Over cooked, bland and the seafood batter was heavy, way too thick. I had Salt & Pepper Squid which seemed to have been cooked with out the Salt & Pepper !!!
When ordering our meals I had considered having the salad bar instead of a normal starter. The one and only healthy thought I had during this week away. When I looked at what was on offer I quickly changed my mind. There were just four dishes with some sort of coleslaw, some tomato slices, some beetroot and some kind of pasta salad that had seen better days. It was like a time warp back to the seventies.
During our meal, my wife pointed out to a waitress that someone was smoking, despite signs clearly stating that was not allowed. The waitress ignored my wife who was left to confront the offender who thankfully was compliant and moved away to the smoking area. In general the rest of the waiting staff were friendly but I think they were overwhelmed by the work load.
Somewhat depressed by our meal experience we headed off to our rooms. The room Gerry and I had been allocated had two single beds. It transpired that the wheels on my bed were not locked and the bed, like a supermarket trolley, had a mind of its own,moving around the room at will. Also, as I subsequently found out, the mattress hadn’t been set on the bed properly so the edge wasn’t supported. After having laid down for a while, when I first went to stand up, the mattress tilted down and I was spilled onto the floor. I sorted the mattress out but, overnight, it seemed to have moved again.
And a general note, the car park is limited for space not enough spaces for the number of rooms. Although we managed to park on site for check-in later in the evening when we returned we had to park out on the street.
So for the hotel I’d rate it as the Second Best Western. Pemberton gets a thumbs up although the early curfew is a pain. Many of the cafe’s could make a bomb if they opened a bit later in the evening.
Many of the properties in Pemberton are heritage listed. Some are in dire need of some TLC but all add to the charm of this country town.
Traveled down to Margaret River on Monday 4th January, the first of five days down in southern W.A. The itinerary was such that we planned to spend one night each at Margaret River, Pemberton and Denmark with two nights at Albany. We also had a bit of time for ad hoc side excursions.
Eighteen years ago, Gerry and I did a similar trip, although we had less time and we did the journey in the reverse order, omitting Margaret River which we bypassed on our way home to Perth.
This time we were four, each of us with varying knowledge and experience of our various destinations. En route to Margaret River we stopped of for refreshments at the “Settlers Roadhouse”.
Settlers Roadhouse – Myalup, WA
Steve and Denise had previously experienced their “pig butties” and had been selling them to us for quite a few days, so our expectations were high. We were not disappointed. Nice soft rolls, multiple rashers of bacon and fried eggs.
On the down side, the main toilet block in the car park was out of action, so was the gents attached to the roadhouse, so men were having to use the disabled facilities. This also meant that there was a queue, something that a lady waiting to use the women’s facilities commented on …… “not often you see a queue for the mens toilet”.
Back on the road and we were soon in Margaret River.
Sign – Margaret River, WA
What a pleasant bustling town Margaret River is. Lots of small boutique style shops and plenty of cafe’s and eateries. We stopped in a cafe and wrapped ourselves around a cup of tea and some apple pie, well I did. Can’t remember what anyone else had. After quenching our thirst we headed over to the visitor centre to find out what was going on locally.
Main Street – Margaret River, WA
As we had a bit of time to spare, before we could check in to our hotel, we took off for a tour around the area. Denise and Steve had been here before , so they had some idea of where to go.
View From Wallcliffe Road – Margaret River, WA
So we found ourselves heading out along Wallcliffe Road towards Surfers Point…..
Rejuvenation by Simon James
Rejuvenation was placed to commemorate a bush-fire that occurred in incident that occurred in November of 2011. Burning through 3,400 hectares (8,400 acres) of land and leaving a total of 39 homes destroyed and another 14 damaged. No lives were lost.
I’m not sure what this next artwork is commemorating. Note, she is on the top of a hill, on a skateboard and wearing a blindfold.
Statue – Margaret River, WA
The wind was blowing very hard. As we crested the rise we were presented with this initial view ….
Wallcliffe Road looking towards Surfers Point – Margaret River, WA
Just some of the many surfers taking advantage of the strong wind …..
Surfers – Surfers Point, Margaret River, WAView North, Surfers Point – Margaret River, WAView North, Surfers Point – Margaret River, WA
This guy was doing very well, controlling his kite as he emerged from the sea. There have been a couple of nasty accidents, here in the Perth area, where the wind has gusted and carried the surfer away. Slamming one unfortunate soul into a tree.
Kite Surfer – Surfers Point, Margaret River, WA
Just a few others around Surfers Point …
After braving the winds gusting up these cliffs, I’d had to tie my hat on, we decided to move on to a cafe for more tea. We found ourselves at the White Elephant Cafe at Gnarabup.
White Elephant Cafe – Gnarabup W.A.
Whats not shown in this photo is the tasty bowls of wedges that we shared. This cafe has a superb terrace / deck from which to watch the surfers, sea birds and sunbathers.
Margaret River – Flowing Out To Sea
And so it was time to head to our hotel so that we could unload the car and freshen ourselves up for our evening meal.
We were staying at the Quality Inn and this is an establishment that I can highly recommend. The rooms were large and airy. Ours came with a little terrace with a bistro set overlooking a small stream which linked the two ponds. Steve and Denise had pretty much the same but their terrace looked out over the larger of the two ponds.
Main Pond, Quality Inn – Margaret River, WA
In the evening the frogs began their chorus. We were informed that we could hear several different species of frog. There were the tradition frogs that call out the usual “ribbet, ribbet”. Then, yes really, there were the “motor bike” frogs. They sound like an old honda accelerating away into the distance. And last, but not least, there were the “banjo” frogs. Sounding out a single “bonk” like the plucking of a banjo string.
We chose to eat in the hotel, in part because we were quite tired, but also because Steve and Denise had eaten there before and were very pleased with their meal. Once again their recommendation was well founded. The staff were friendly, the food was superbly cooked and the portions were more than ample.
Here endeth our Margaret River experience. We wished we had allowed more time for this lovely town. Needless to say we will be returning as soon as we can.
One of the many flowers in the grounds of the hotel
The following photo’s are of birds that are visiting the garden here in WA. I have no idea what species they are but offer them up for your delectation.
Should anyone be able to identify the species, please let me know.
Having seen all manner of roadkill alongside the roads during our perambulations in WA. To be confronted with this directly outside our motel room door, I rather hoped this was not some kind of omen.
WrAnTz 